The quest for bouillabaisse

Like many of the stories from our recent vacation in France, this is about finishing unfinished business.  In 2007, we made a trip to the village of Cassis one of our focal points for primarily 2 reasons.  We wanted to eat bouillabaisse next to the Mediterranean Sea.  At the time, the quest seemed simple enough.

We were staying in the village of Saint-Remy-de-Provence, which is about 2 hours away.  So on a very blustery morning we headed out.  The first stop was the city of Marseille.  After drinking cafe crèmes, eating croissants, exploring the port, and seeing signs for bouillabaisse everywhere, we got in line for tickets to take the ferry to Chateau d’If. Unfortunately, the winds were so strong the ferry wasn’t running.  No worries.  We shake off the minor disappointment and head to Cassis.

The beauty of Cassis is hard to describe.  We were quite simply in awe of this port city nestled between coastal hills and the sea.  We took a walking tour of the city and as we walked along, we saw signs for bouillabaisse at every restaurant.  We could hardly wait but it was only noon-ish and a little early for lunch.  We tried to take a boat tour of the calanques, little bays surrounded by cliffs, but once again the wind stop us.  Is this disappointment number 2?

We opted to head for the beach and dip our toes into the sea and enjoy the beauty of it all.  Finally, around 1:30, we headed back to the row of restaurants to decide what lucky establishment was going to fulfill our bouillabaisse quest.  We selected one and sat down only to be informed by our waiter they were out.  What!!!  No biggie. We simply got up and went next door.  They were out as well.  At our 4th or 5th restaurant the waiter explained that everyone only makes a certain amount and when it’s gone, it’s gone, typically by 1:00.  We settle on a fisherman stew, shrimp scampi, and a bottle of Cassis white wine, which were all excellent.  With our day done, and our quest unfulfilled, we headed back home vowing not to make the same mistake again.

Now it’s 2009 and we are starting over.  No Marseille this time.  Instead it is straight to Cassis.  We are staying in a house in Lourmarin that is only 45 minutes away.  We arrive early and find the municipal parking but not a parking space.  This is not a concern because one of the things I think I have mastered is the art of French parking.

First stop, the calanque tours which are running smoothly this day.  We select a tour that carries us to 3 calanques and allows us to enjoy the beauty of the Mediterranean Sea from a new perspective.  As the tour finished, we walked off the boat and straight to the restaurant we ate at in 2007.  Did they have bouillabaisse today?  The answer was a resounding yes although at 11:00 it was definitely to early for lunch.

We explored the town a little more, stop for coffee and enjoyed the beach before heading back to the restaurant.  It was now just before noon but we were not taking any chances.  We got the best seat and ordered our bouillabaisse and Cassis white wine.  (BTW – there may not be a more perfect food-wine pairing then this.)

As we were enjoying our first sips of wine, the waiter informed us the bouillabaisse would not be ready for another 30-minutes and did we want to wait.  Little did he know we had been waiting for 2 and a half years.  So we sat back, relaxed, sipped wine and simply enjoyed being on vacation in France.  The only concern was that we would finish our Cassis wine before the bouillabaisse arrived.  The solution?  We ordered a bottle of Cassis rosé to drink and saved the white for later.

When the bouillabaisse did arrive it was everything we hoped it would be.  By this time we had high expectations but were not disappointed.  The delicious fish, the delicate wine, and the scenic views made this a shared experience we will never forget. 

With our quest fulfilled, we drove back home.  This time our discussions were not about the disappointments of the last trip but about how lucky we were to get the opportunity to try again.

Au revoir!